"On all peaks lies peace." Goethe
Atop the summit of Irago Mountain, at 4,934 feet above sea level, stands Cruz de Ferro, the Iron Cross. This unassuming tribute on its weathered wooden pole is where pilgrims literally cast off the small stones they have been carrying with them on the Camino since they started. These tiny rocks represent all the prayers silently spoken along the way for their loved ones who could not accompany them, but have been with them for every step taken till now.
To many this action of casting a small piece of rubble backwards over their shoulder onto the great mass of gravel behind them is much important than receiving a journey's end certificate of completion at Santiago de Compostela.
Now, the descent to Rabanal de camino, Ponferrada and beyond may commence, the Gal and her Guy's Camino continues...
Villafranca del bierzo
(the last, smallest & best of the wine regions)
The band of thirsty pilgrims know what awaits them, hence the mad scramble down the mountainside.
As one approaches Villafranca del Bierzo, on the left, sits a beautiful 12th century Romanesque church with its famous Puerta del Perdon, Door of Forgiveness.
Earlier on the trip, a pilgrim had mistakenly informed the Guy if he walked through the door all his past sins would be forgiven. However, the gentle, matronly curator who spoke perfect English explained that was not the case. If a pilgrim had made it this far, but was now unable to continue due to a physical ailment, then they could be forgiven and receive their certificate of completion here.
"So, except for that stupid pink tape on your leg, you look perfectly healthy and strong to me! So, get on with it!", she commanded.
No time for self-pity on the Camino because there's always one more curve to bend around and high point to scale. So, up they went to
the last hillside hamlet before O Cebreiro
(O Activo, O Pino, O Empaime, O Retiro, O Pedrouzo, etc.)
Up out of the Valcarce valley on a path lined with giant Spanish chestnut trees the Gal and her Guy climbed.
Pole beans drying in the sun on the sidewalk of the farmer's house.
Singing vendor (press play)
Now they are finally leaving the autonomous region of Castilla y Leon and entering Galicia, whose many Celtic roots are still evident even today in everything from bagpipe music to thatched roofs to ancient relics to pagan myths and superstitions to horreos (above ground granaries at first mistakenly attributed to Romans) to town names beginning with an "O".
Some call Galicia the 7th Celtic Nation after Brittany, Cornwall, the Isle of Mann, Wales, Ireland and Scotland; but to this author it begs the geographical / human migration question "which came first the chicken or the egg?" and instead Galicia should be called the First Celtic Nation.
Pilgrim Pete running with the cows in Spain
Builders using the construction materials on hand
Old and still going
Pavers placed on edge last a lot longer
Century Old Walnut tree
(he meant the tree not himself)
Triacastela
Even their rainy days began with special sunrises
Pilgrim Steve
"Why is a scallop shell the icon of The Camino, Alexa?"
Not all roads traveled are easy
It's all downhill from here.
The final push towards The End is now in sight
(stand by)
