While we were walking around some back roads of the not so lovely hamlet of Lasso, a family came by in their pick-up truck and asked if we would like to visit their rose farm. Roses are the third or fourth (depending on who you ask) largest export of Ecuador. This man's flowers were all intended for export outside of the country, and as seems to be the trend, totally organic.
We went to a mercado that had a section of handicrafts (we all found beautiful things to buy) but it was primarily an indigenous market for the locals with everything you could possibly want or need, including live chickens destined for that afternoons's soup (sopa)pot.
And the next day, it was on to Cotopaxi, the highest active volcano in the world. The local legend is that after the baby (Illiniza) and Mother (Tungurahua) make enough ruckus with their eruptions, they awaken Big Daddy (Cotopaxi) from his sleep. Mama has been putting on quite a display lately, so the Ecuadorians are expecting some action from Cotopaxi (the Man of the House) soon.
Here we are, looking fairly warm and happy, as we work our way closer to the mountain.
Cotopaxi means collar in Quichua. The red soils you see everywhere are the left over deposits from previous eruptions.
Note the change of appearal we've donned on leaving the parking lot and heading for the higher base camp with its elevation of 15,400 + feet. That's our guide on the left, not me!
The hike wasn't very long, but considering the altitude, we were happy to get there.
Our next stop, was Quilotoa, a little hamlet on the edge of a crater lake. The elevation was slightly lower, but the wind blew and the temps dropped with the setting of the sun. Here's a shot of Debbie and Katie sporting the offical uniform of traveling, outdoorsy Gringas... (caps being optional) black sunglasses and tops with kool kakii bottoms to accent and soften the rugged hiking boots.
The trail around the rim was fabulous, a little scary at times, and even though they said you couldn't get lost, we often tried.
The proprietress of our hosteria did Debbie's hair up like one of the nate's.
Tony thought this was the best picture of Debbie he has ever seen, but then he's an A-hole.
You would think it'd be hot on the equator, but not at 13,000ft. So, we headed south and east towards the Oriente.
Banos is on the eastern side of the eastern cordillera, so the climate was warmer, more humid with more tropical vegetation. We hiked,shopped, enjoyed the public thermal baths and just took it easy.
And, oh yes, I forgot to mention that we did have some trouble getting into and out of Banos due to the demonstrations by the indigenous peoples over the loss of their water rights. Our bus was turned back once, we were in the middle of rock throwing by the demonstrators and tear gassing by the police (I was trying to hide under the seat while Debbie was watching out of the back window, giving us a blow by blow of the action) and then we were stranded over night along with all the the semis in the town of El Tambo.
But, we did make it back to Cuenca on schedule and had an exceptionally lovely and warm day to hike in Cajas National Park. We can take public transportation from the city to the park and some of its trailheads. However, on this particular day, the buses returning to the city were few and far between, so we hitched a ride in the back of a pick-up. The young man driving seemed to be training for Nascar and was the most exciting mode of transportation we experienced.
Sadly, Debbie had to return to Anacortes, so Katie and I headed south to Vilcabamba. They claim it's the water, but there are an unusual number of really old people living there. Also, old hippies and strange gringos, but that's my take on it. There was a short, extremely exposed section of trail that Katie didn't care for (notice the person to the left of the trail). Nonetyhless, we pushed on and were rewarded with spectacular views. Then we went and had $18 massages and $5 pedicures. What a great country!
I hope some of the rest of you, our other friends, will come down, so we can explore other parts of this diverse country.
Chau for now,
Joella
